Contact

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Søren Gudmann

Phone +45 29 99 67 84

gudmann at pbhome.dk

 

 

News

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Manaslu 2009

 

 

On 28. September, 2009 I summited Manaslu, 8163m, in the central Nepal. This was my third 8000m summit. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Double trouble - Gasherbrum 1+2 2007

 

The targets for my efforts this year were Gasherbrum 1 (8068 m)  and Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m) in the spectacular Karakoram mountains in the remote North Eastern Pakistan. 

 

Unfortunately the weather and snow conditions were very difficult this year. At some stage I was moving around in quite valanche dangerous areas, and a week later a big avalanche swept down the face of G2 picking up 4 climbers on its way. Afterwards I participated in the rescue mission, where we managed to save two of the climbers. 

After that experience I as well as all other climbers abandoned G2. 

 

Later I had a try on G1, but also here conditions were difficult, weather forecast was bad and I was running out of time. So all in all a disappointing trip. But sometimes you have to chose safety for ambition. And the overall ruling ambition after all is to come home alive.  

 

 

Summiting Carstensz Pyramid on the 14th May 2006.

Finally I managed to get the right permits and access to the remote Carstensz Pyramid in the Papua jungle. A number of flights including one in an old Russian helicopter took us to the base camp and after a few days of acclimatisation we were ready for the climb. Contrary to the normal we had a beautiful summit day, not a drop of rain.

 

Thus I have finished the 8th of the Seven Summits, or to put it another way, both versions, and that within less than one year. Not bad when you are from a country where the highest point is 173 m above sea level!

 

 

 

Presentation - coming to a theatre near you?

I have a lot of fantastic pictures and do presentations for different types of ordiences.

Interested in a presentation? - please contact me and we can arrange it.

 

Been there – done it !

 

Finished the 7 Zummits according to my plan. Summited Aconcagua on the 26th November, for the second time in my "career" and on my birthday, and Vinson on the 14th December, after a couple of days in survival mode in a blizzard. Thus completing the 7 summits in 193 days, well below the the 214 days I was challenging.

 

Later I heard that it wasn't good enough to stand as the new world record. That was of course disappointing, but I cant do much about it now. It was a fantastic odyssey, and I am the first Danish Seven summiteer - forever.

 

 

 

 

On top of Vinson 14th December at 22.30 hrs, finishing the 7 Zummits tour

 

 

Summary

 

Everest 04. June
Denali 02. July
Elbrus 24. July
Kosciusko 05. September
Kilimanjaro 30. September
Aconcagua 26. November
Mt. Vinson 14. December
Total 193 days

 
 

Beyond Everest

Already when I left home to go to and climb Mt. Everest I had a plan of something more in my mind. If I succeeded I had decided to go for the 7 Summits as an additional challenge. I made Elbrus in 2001 and Aconcagua in 2002, but after that I had prioritized other mountains.

My quest was not only to scale the other six continental summits, but to do it before the end of 2005, or more precisely to do the 7 Zummits in less than 7 months.

 

At the time of the decision, and during my rather short research and planning period, it was not possible to get to Carstenz Pyramid, so I planned with Kosciusko. Later – in the middle of the execution of the plan, the Indonesian authorities opened for climbs on Carstenz again. I have tried to get it into the 7 month plan, but it has not been possible, so for the time being I am planning to do it in January 2006.